Saturday 3/9
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The Jesus Boat | Mount of Beatitudes | Capernaum | Crossing over Jordan

The Jesus Boat

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We are on a boat now, about to take a ride across the Sea of Galilee.

We started our boat ride by raising the American flag and singing the American national anthem.  Apparently, this has been a daily ritual, since 9/11.  (We have seen several cut signs, saying, "Don't worry, America.  Israel is behind you.")

It will be 80°F in Israel today.  At home, Marcia told Ken that it snowed, and is around freezing.

We are heading for the south end of the lake.  Directly ahead, high on a hill is Safed, which is thought to be the city Jesus referred to when he said that a "city on a hill cannot be hid."  It is a little bit hazy, and I am not sure the picture will turn out.

It is very quiet and peaceful out here on the lake.  The water is extremely calm, and there are none of the other boats out now besides ours.  This may be because it is the Sabbath.

The boat we rode on is a replica of the Jesus boat, an ancient boat found here a few years ago, which is of the type fisherman would have used in Jesus' day.  We are about to go into the museum to see the boat and a video about how it was found.

On the way up the pier to the museum, we passed a sign saying, "No diving."  It is completely landlocked, showing the extent of the drought here.

Hotel cat
Cat who seems to be in residence on the grounds of the Sheraton at Tiberias

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You Need to Know

Fishing

Fishing
Fishing A demonstration of fishing the way it would have been done in Jesus' day

Boat

The boat we rode on.  It is supposed to be a replica of the Jesus Boat
Arbel Arbel The Arbel from the Sea of Galilee.  The V-shaped slot beneath the cliff is where air comes down off the Mediterranean to replace warm air rising from the lake.  About 2 o'clock every afternoon it causes a bad storm on the Sea of Galilee, which is probably what happened when Jesus was in the boat
Mount of Beatitudes
Mount of Beatitudes from the Sea of Galilee
The City on the Hill
The City on the Hill which cannot be hid.
No diving sign
No diving sign next to the pier at the Jesus Boat museum.  Due to the drought, this sign is more than twenty feet from the shore
Model of Jesus Boat
Model of the Jesus Boat
Jesus Boat
The remains of the Jesus Boat.  Pictures taken without flash
Jesus Boat

Mount of Beatitudes

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We just passed a banana field, and now we are passing some mangoes.  Bananas are a major crop here, and in this particular area mangoes are common.  The bananas are covered with blue bags to keep out the sun, so that they won't ripen too quickly.  In the winter, they use a different kind of bag, because the sun is different.

We are going into a Catholic church on the Mount of Beatitudes.  The grounds are landscaped in sections with a placard for each of the Beatitudes.  The walls inside the church have pictures of the traditional 14 stations of the cross.

We are going to walk a trail now, down along the edge of the natural amphitheater and come out approximately at the place where Jesus may have stood, if this is the correct place.  There are several similar natural areas within a mile or two of here.  If this is not the exact place, it is somewhere near.

It is quite something to look down toward the lake and imagine that Jesus is down there speaking.  Walking through this field is like walking through any field, with weeds as tall as we are in places.  Sound carries very well here.  Without competing noises like the traffic we hear now, a man could easily speak to several thousand people without any amplifier.

At the bottom of the hill the currents from 7 springs come together in the lake.  We see birds gathered to fish, and presumably the disciples fished here, too.  This is the traditional spot where John 21 took place.

It has taken us about half an hour to descend on the trail.  We have discovered that an iron fence has been erected, blocking our way, and the gate is locked.  There is a gap under the gate, and we all have to crawl or "limbo" under in order to get down to the road where the bus is waiting.

David spoke to a concessionaire across the road in front of a church and learned that the fence was put up recently to protect the banana field.  There is a path and a stairway now that comes out on the other side of the field.

The church is the Catholic Church of the Primacy of St. Peter.  It is supposed to mark the place where Christ told Peter "feed my sheep."  Our guide interprets Jesus asking "Lovest thou me" three times as being related to the three denials.  This is a Franciscan church that had been completely buried at one time.

From here we are going to a Byzantine church, which also claims to be the site.

Church of the Beatitudes
Church of the Beatitudes, on top of the Mount
Church of the Beatitudes
Inside the church
Looking toward Capernaum
Looking from the porch of the church through the trees toward Capernaum.  Obviously easy walking distance from here
The amphitheater
Looking down the hill from the porch at the natural amphitheater.  Presumably, Jesus would have stood at the bottom of the hill and the people would have gathered about where the banana field is
Trail
Going down the trail toward the bottom of the amphitheater
Trail
Another part of the trail.  We are shoulder deep in vegetation
Banana field
Banana field in the middle of the amphitheater
Olive tree
An olive tree on the path
Crown of Thorns tree
Close-up of tree known as the Crown of Thorns.  Some say this is what the crown placed on Jesus' head was made from
Downhill from the edge of the amphitheater
Looking down the hill from the side of the amphitheater
Stone Stone marking the traditional spot where Jesus stood to preach
Looking up
Looking up
Looking down
Looking down.  The people at the edge of the water are Druse in full costume
Franciscan Church of the Primacy of St. Peter
The Church of the Primacy of St. Peter-- Franciscan
Interior
Interior of the church.  Noon Mass is in progress
Byzantine Church of the Primacy of St. Peter
The Byzantine Church of the Primacy of St. Peter
Olive press
An olive oil press.  The word for this is Gethsemane
Explanatory sign Explanatory sign
Church courtyard
The courtyard
Church interior
The interior of the church
Altar
Altar.  The stone underneath is said to be where Jesus laid the fish and loaves (pita) He divided to feed the crowd
Explanatory signs inside the atrium of the church

Capernaum

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We stopped for lunch at a new restaurant where we are to eat "St. Peter's fish"--the same type of fish in whose mouth Peter found the coin to pay taxes.  However, the meal is $15.00 and most of us do not want it.  We are almost the only ones there, because trade is way down, and we suspect the price is being jacked up.  I paid $10.00 for a salad and coke.  The coke bottle has writing both in English and in Hebrew.  Several of our group didn't eat anything.  We wasted more than an hour here.

We are going now to Capernaum (k'phar-Nahum--house of Nahum).  This city is a major nexus in the spread of the Gospel.  It was Jesus' home base.  It is also one of the three cities that Jesus cursed (Matthew 11:23), and nothing but ruins remain today.  It was completely destroyed in the 600's.  We will see the actual synagogue where Jesus preached, and walk on stones dating from his time, where he probably actually walked.  Only a small part of the city has been found.  Since the synagogue was usually in the center of the city, it can be estimated that only a very small part has been located.

The synagogue was built by a Roman centurion who was commended to Jesus in the Gospels as a friend of the Jews (Luke 7:5).

St. Peter's fish
St. Peter's fish
Franciscan monestary at Capernaum
Entrance to Franciscan monastery at Capernaum
Garden area
Ruins in garden area at Capernaum
Gethsemanes
Olive presses (gethsemanes) at Capernaum
Via Maris milestone
Various columns recovered in the area, including a milestone from the Via Maris, which ran where our road runs today
Columns
Mortar and pestle
A mortar and pestle type grain mill.  Grain is put in the top and comes out the bottom as the stone is turned by an animal, such as a donkey
Synagogue wall
Synagogue at Capernaum.  Black stones at the bottom are from Jesus' time.  The white stones are replacements from a later date, brought from Egypt
Worship area
Inside the worship area of the synagogue.  Floor is from the time of Christ
Worship area
Interior of the worship area from the other end
School room
Jonathan inside the school room area
School room
School room from a different direction
Women's area
Looking back from the school room to the worship area.  The tall part at the front is the second floor where the women were restricted to be
"Kill the king" gameboard
Section of floor in the school room with a game board patterned after a Roman soldier's game called "Kill the king."  The winner was proclaimed king and then given a certain amount of time to get away before the others tried to kill him.
Explanatory sign
Explanatory sign about the synagogue
Housing area
Black basalt ruins of housing area that was underneath the synagogue
Peter's home (?)
Supposed home of Peter where he lived with his mother-in-law, whom Jesus healed
Peter's home (?)
Stone showing ark on wheels Stone showing an ark on wheels in the synagogue.  This portability is important because it explains how this and some buildings in the Golan could be synagogues and yet face away from Jerusalem

Crossing over Jordan

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We are now driving all the way around the lake.  This is not a long distance, slightly more than a marathon.  We will be stopping at the Jordan River briefly.

We are now going to cross over the bridge at the river Jordan where it feeds into the Sea of Galilee on the north end.  We are walking out of "Beulah land."  The real Jordan river doesn't look a whole lot different from the Jordan River we have in Utah.  About the same size, with a lot of reeds and papyrus along the banks.

We have crossed the river and are now in territory that was controlled by Syria before the 6-day war in 1967.  Almost immediately after we crossed the river, we passed the tel Bethsaida.  This is where Peter was born.  It is also one of the cities that Jesus cursed (Matthew 11:21), and so there is nothing today but ruins.  Earlier we passed a turnoff for Choraizin.  That is the third city that Jesus cursed (Matthew 11:21), and it is nothing but ruins today, also.  Many of the other towns from Jesus' day are still in existence.

We are now at the place of the Gadarenes, where Jesus cast out demons.  "Gader" means a break, or a border.  There is no cliff here.  The swine ran down the hill into the sea.  This is the "other side" or Gentile side of the Sea of Galilee.

As we pass out of Gadera, the Golan is just above us.  There is a "V" in the mountains.  The mountains above the "V" are in Jordan.

There are several kibbutzim along this part of the lake.  Some were shelled constantly while the Syrians held the Golan.  Even now, the artillery is only about three miles away.

At the south end of the lake as we cross the Jordan is the first kibbutz.  This is where Moshe Dayan was born.  Across the Jordan again, is an area that is used for baptisms.  Entrance and exit are through a gift shop.  Much of what we have seen today has been very much commercialized.

Back at the hotel, all of our food is kosher.  Variety seems endless.  The emphasis is on vegetables and bread made without milk.  Meat of any kind is always mixed with vegetables, never alone.  There is no fat.  The sweets are incredible.  Fresh grapefruit is sliced like a tomato, rather than halved or sectioned.

For the second night, there is the loud sound of disco and laughter from the harbor, but it shuts down sometime after 10pm.  No one here acts particularly worried about war.  Life goes on.  Both hotels so far have given us suites and deluxe treatment.

There is one other tour group here who shared this morning's boat ride.  Otherwise, the hotel is nearly empty.

Shops are still closed.  The 110 outlet in our room doesn't work, and I am not able to plug my battery charger into the shaver converter I brought.  The camera batteries ran out tonight.  I will have to use regular batteries and try to find a connector or converter tomorrow.

The area to the west of the Sea of Galilee used to be a swamp.  It was reclaimed and developed.  This was negative in effect, because the swamp had acted as a filter for water entering the lake.  The result is that the water is now polluted; whereas it used to be pure.  Because this is 40% of the water source for Israel, the government is going to restore part of the swamp.

Jordan River The Jordan River
Reeds and papyrus Reeds on the left; papyrus on the right
Reeds Reeds alone
Papyrus Close up of papyrus
Gadera A church that was built to commemorate Jesus casting out the demons and their entering into the herd of swine at Gadera
Gethsemane Reconstructed olive oil press at Gadera, with well in the ground to catch the oil as it came out of the press
Outlet of Jordan River The Jordan River as it exits the Sea of Galilee on the south, going toward the Dead Sea
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