Friday 3/8
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Cesarea | Mt. Carmel | Megiddo | Nazareth | Arbel | Tiberias

Cesarea

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We are just a couple of miles south of Netanya and there is a hang glider in the sky like the ones at the Point of the Mountain.  He is out over the Mediterranean.

We are passing through the Sharon area.  "Sharon" means "forest," although this was probably a swampland in Biblical times.  There are trees here now--not a whole lot.  It looks just like any other urban area.

We are at Cesarea now, going into the Roman theater.  The city was built because there is a natural port here with a barrier that blocks the silt that comes from the Nile.  The theater was found only about 30 years ago.  

It was under the sand and appeared to be just a sand dune.  This theater is probably the place where Paul was judged.  There is a place between here and the palace that is supposed to be his prison.  This is a coliseum, not an amphitheater, because it is not built into a hillside as the Greeks did.

Theater panorama
Panorama of the theater from behind the stage

Outside Roman Theater at Cesarea
Outside Roman theater at Cesarea


Theater exterior
Outside view of the theater

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Friday 3/15
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You Need to Know

Theater exit

Sandstone wall
David pointing at sandstone, compacted from the salt in the sea.  This is what the theater is built from.
Theater exit
Exit, or vomitarium, with mosaics on the floor.  Stone arch.
Pilate's seat
Inscription with the name of Pontius Pilate taken from his seat in the theater.  This stone is the only place where his name is mentioned outside of the Bible.
Stucco
Some of the stucco that covered the exterior of the stones with painted designs
Theater stage
Stage area from seat of Pontius Pilate where stone was located.  Originally, there was an acoustic wall in the background.
Stage and palace
Stage area with remains of palace in background.
Theater interior panorama
 
Interior of the theater
Marble floor
Original marble flooring of the theater
Governor's mansion
Columns of the governor's mansion or palace
Harbor panorama
Shot of harbor from the possible prison cell of the Apostle Paul
Harbor
Harbor
Hippodrome
Part of an amphitheater and hippodrome built along the shore of the harbor
Roman fresco
Remains of Roman fresco on wall of the hippodrome
Restored Roman fresco
Reproduction of the fresco
Byzantine villa
Byzantine villa built on top of the hippodrome remains
Rose of Sharon
Mosaic floor showing the Lily of Sharon, or Rose of Sharon, which is what Jesus is called in a hymn (not in Scripture).  Lily is the better translation
Indoor plumbing
Roman indoor plumbing
Roman bathhouse
Roman bathhouse undergoing restoration
Main street of Cesarea
Main street of Cesarea, partially restored.  Along the side the trench wall is visible showing how far down archaeologists had to dig
Tax office
Tax office with mosaic inscription--Render unto Caesar that which is Caesar's
Dry moat
Part of a dry moat around a Crusader city at Cesarea
Sign
Sign describing another street
Headless male statue Headless female statue
Roman statues--heads knocked off by Jews at a later date because "Thou shalt have no graven images"--also the Romans considered their Caesars to be gods.  Heads and feet on these statues were changed when a new Caesar came to power

Mt. Carmel

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We are coming to the top of Mt. Carmel.  We are passing through a Druse community.  This is a group of Arabs who are not Muslim.  They have their own secret religion and do not marry outside their religion.  They believe they are descended from Moses' father-in-law, Jethro.  They claim five prophets--Moses, Jethro, Jesus, Elijah and Mohammed.  The men wear long mustaches and shave their heads.  Usually they dress in black.  Carmel is the place where Elijah challenged the prophets of Baal.  It is also where Elijah prayed that there would be no rain.  Three years later, Elijah prayed for the rain to begin from the top of Mt. Carmel, where he could look out on the Mediterranean.

At Carmel we can look across the valley of Megiddo at Nazareth.  Jesus grew up overlooking the site where the final battle will be.

Stopped for lunch, falafel, at a Druse shop.  Rich is addicted.

On the road down to the valley of Megiddo, we stopped to see a 1st century Jewish tomb and a rolling stone found during road construction.  This is a kosher (fit) tomb.  The body had to be washed and had to be placed in the ground.  David wanted us to see this, so that we will know what a first century tomb looks like.  He does not believe the Garden tomb is actually Jesus' tomb, because it is the wrong type.  We will see the difference for ourselves in a few days.

Hillside near Mt. Carmel
Hillside near Carmel showing some of the vegetation.  Overall this area looks like northern Utah

Small garden at Mt. Carmel
Small garden at  Mt. Carmel
Elijah
Statue of Elijah at the top of Mt. Carmel
Elijah, Ken and Rich
Ken and Rich under the statue
View from Mt. Carmel View from Mt. Carmel
1st century Jewish tomb
First century Jewish tomb with rolling stone uncovered when road was built--about 4' high
Tomb
On top of tomb, looking down on cistern where body was washed
View from Mt. Carmel Raven in tree
Above:  3 views from Mt. Carmel looking down on the Valley of Megiddo with the Mediterranean in the distance Raven sitting in tree

Megiddo

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We are at the tel Megiddo, or har-Megiddo (Armageddon).  This is a large tel.  We are looking down on the valley of Megiddo, or Armageddon.  The tel was the basis for Michener's The Source.

Megiddo was the crossroads between three continents in ancient times (which is why it is a logical spot for the last battle).  It was necessary to go through here to go north or south along the Via Maris in ancient times.  It is the only place where it is possible to go into Jordan without having to cross mountains.  Strategic place for a fortress.  The trenches show 25 layers of civilization.

Entrance to ancient cities required a sharp left turn after the gate, because the sword is carried in the right hand, making an enemy vulnerable while making the turn.

Megiddo is where Thutmose III had a fortress before the land was settled by the tribe of Manasseh.  An ancient document complains that the Hebrews won't pay taxes to the Pharaoh.

There are poppies and bluebells all around.  I saw forsythias earlier.

 

 

Tel Megiddo
Side of Tel Megiddo

Gate of Megiddo
Gate of Megiddo-- about 3500 years old--during time of Canaanites. Beginning of an arch in the front and two defensive towers behind the gate  

Top of gate
On top of the gate.  From the time of Solomon.  Only one side remains--the other was removed during excavation

Valley of Megiddo
Looking across the Valley of Megiddo toward Nazareth.  Quarried area is traditional site where they tried to throw Jesus off the cliff.  David thinks this is the wrong site

Valley of Megiddo
Looking across the Valley of Megiddo toward place where Jonathan and Saul died, and where Gideon had his men drink water to test them
Valley of Megiddo
Looking across the Valley of Megiddo.  Brown hillside is where Jonathan and Saul were killed.  David cursed the mountain and to this day nothing grows there.

Canaanite altar
Canaanite sacrificial altar

Sketch of altar
Sketch of dig around the altar at Megiddo
Water tunnel
Going down 183 steps into tunnel which brought water into Megiddo.  At the top are Israelite steps, which just stop
Water tunnel
Water tunnel

Water tunnel
Exit from tunnel at other end--originally this was the entrance

Seepage pool
Seepage pool--source of the water which filled the tunnel.  Probably they lowered a rope down the shaft where we went down and raised water in a bucket

Nazareth

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We are leaving Megiddo for Nazareth, where we will walk through the old city.  

We are climbing up to Nazareth.  It is at the top of the mountain.  Fairly steep and winding climb.

Nazareth is a very crowded city--80,000 Arabs and 40,000 Jews.  Arabs are split roughly 50% Muslim, 50% "Christian."  There is quite a bit of dispute here because Muslim Arabs want to build a mosque.  Streets are very narrow.  We are proceeding at a snail's pace.  Not because there is a lot of traffic, but because the street is so narrow and there are pedestrians.  Reminds me of Eureka Springs, Arkansas.  Very slow going to get through here.

We are walking through an Arab bazaar to get into the old city now.

We are stopped at the synagogue--supposedly where Christ preached before they tried to throw him off the mountain.  This synagogue is old enough that it is probably the actual place.  It is not likely that there would have been another synagogue.

We were unable to get into the synagogue, because there was no one to open the doors.  I bought a postcard from an Arab vendor showing the inside.  It is a very small place.

The word "Nazareth" is related linguistically to the "root from the stump of Jesse" used in Isaiah 11 to prophesy the lineage of the Messiah.

We are at another site that is known as Mary's well.  Supposedly, Mary came here to draw water.  It is possible that here is the place where Gabriel made the announcement to her.  Just across the way is the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation.

All of the things we have seen in Nazareth are within an area of just a couple of square blocks.  The original city of Nazareth was very small.  That's why the synagogue was small.  There were only a few people in it.

The buildings here are made of stone and brick.  There is very little wood used, if any at all.  Although, Jesus and Joseph were called carpenters, the word actually means "stone mason."

Nazareth is divided pretty much into sections  The old city where we have been is in the Arab section.  We are now approaching the Jewish section, which has more modern-looking homes.

Some of these little villages are so close together that you can't tell, really, when you've gone from one to another.  It's a matter of a block or so of empty space between them.

We are just a very short distance, less than five miles, out of Nazareth and we have come to a very large village.  This is the village of Cana, where Jesus changed the water into wine.  Now there are many, many churches claiming to be the site where the miracle occurred.  Probably, none of them is correct.  This would have been about an hour to and hour-and-a-half walk for Jesus and Mary--downhill from Nazareth.

We are passing now through a valley on our way to Tiberias, the ancient capital of Galilee.  It is known as the Valley of Grain.  Supposedly, this may be the place where Jesus' disciples picked the grain on the Sabbath, and where Jesus was rebuked by the Sadducees.

Poppies Poppies
Poppies Poppies
Poppy Field of poppies growing wild--on the way to Nazareth.  Several colors but all poppies.  They grow here because of the soil.  We have seen occasional poppies previously, but this is the only field
Mosque site
Site where Muslims want to build a mosque in Nazareth
Bazaar
Arab Bazaar
Bazaar
Arab Bazaar.  Ken, Dick, Mike  and Lee in the foreground
Bazaaar
Arab Bazaar
Bazaar entrance
David and Ken approaching entrance to another bazaar
Narrow street
Another narrow street, part of bazaar area.  We have gone through what seems like an infinite number of streets of this type
Catholic Church of the Annunciation
Catholic Church of the Annunciation--supposedly built over the site where the Angel Gabriel gave Mary the announcement of Jesus' birth.  There is a Crusader church underneath and beneath that is a Byzantine church.  This is the traditional site.  The Greek Orthodox say it is elsewhere
Synagogue at Nazareth
Plaque outside the Nazareth synagogue.  This is most likely where Jesus read from the book of Isaiah before the people attempted to throw him over the cliff (Luke 4:14-30)
Mary's well
Mary's well
Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation
Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation
Inside the gate of the Greek Orthodox church

Entrance to the church from inside the gate

Arbel

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We are coming to a village overlooking the Sea of Galilee ("Sea" because there was no word for "lake" in ancient Hebrew.  The lake is also referred to as Gennesaret, and as the Sea of Tiberias, in the Bible.)

The village is called Arbel.  It existed in the time of Jesus.  There was a fort here.  The village and fort were completely destroyed by the Romans.  Today there are almost no reminders of the city.

Directly across the lake from us are the Golan Heights.  The name is derived from "Gaul."  That area belonged to the French at one time.

We have climbed from the road to reach Arbel.  It is a nice gentle trail, about like the trails behind the Academy.  Arbel was on the highest point of a cliff, where it commanded a view of the entire Galilean area.  From here we can see the little villages where Jesus spent more than 75% of his ministry time.  It is smaller than the Salt Lake Valley, ringed with mountains on either side.  On our side the mountains are not very high.  The highest is Mount Hermon, at the far end of the Golan.  Galilee is very beautiful and pleasant.

Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks--the first sign of spring in Israel--growing next to the trail at Arbel

Hollyhocks

Ken at Arbel
Ken on the edge of the Arbel

Ken at Arbel
Sea of Galilee
Sea of Galilee from the Arbel.  The lake is known by several different names in scripture--such as Gennesaret, Kinesseret, and the Sea of Tiberias.  It is also the dividing line between the tribes in the Old Testament.  Mountains in the background are in Jordan
Magdala Looking straight down from the cliff at the Arbel at the ancient site of Magdala.  The modern town is a short distance away.

Tiberias

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We have arrived at the Tiberias Sheraton, where we will stay a couple of nights.  Tiberias was the capital of Galilee in Roman days from the time of Herod Antipas, who built it, to the time of Herod Agrippa II.  Previously, the seat of power had been Sepphoris.  This city was a resort, known for its hot-water baths and decadence.  There is no record that Jesus ever visited here.

Again, Ken and I have what appears to be a suite.  The hotels so far are nearly empty, so we assume they are giving us the best rooms to encourage business.  Sabbath has begun at about the time we arrive, and there are a number of local families who have come to the hotel for the night to have their "Shabot" apart from the need to work (i.e., cooking, etc.)  The hotel prepares food in advance, so that there is no need to "work" for the hotel staff.  One man asked a member of our group to push the elevator button for him, so that he would not have to "work" on the Sabbath.

 From the balcony we can look down on the wharf and lake.  There is a cruise boat going back and forth.  We can hear dance music, much of it American hits from the 50's and 60's.

We have been treated to wonderful meals in the hotels.  The food is laid out buffet style.  The buffet is huge.  All of the food is kosher, so we are learning to try some new things.  Breakfast is done the same way.  Breakfast is the only time we have milk, since there is no meat with breakfast.  All of the meals include several kinds of fruit and vegetables, both familiar and unfamiliar.  The meat is absolutely lean.  Surprisingly, I have seen no mutton of any kind.

After dinner, I walked through part of the town and along the wharf to get a feel for it.  Many have closed early because of the Sabbath.  It is obvious that the shops are hurting, just as in Netanya, although there are more people on the streets.  Most of the shops, even those that are not oriented primarily to tourists, have no more than a single customer.  The majority have none.

Tiberias Views of Tiberias from the hotel balcony.  I am reminded of Fisherman's Wharf
Tiberias
Tiberias
Tiberias at night Lights on the hillside above Tiberias
Party boat Party ship coming into the harbor
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